Prince of Wales’ banyan, ca. 1780. Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton. ID CT002728
Soooo, what about that banyan?
Cotton chintz printed in red, brown and purple with blue pencil. Batting seems to be cotton by the way it has bunched in the diamonds, but I expected wool. If it is wool, it is super fine lambs’ wool. Since it was for the Prince of Wales, I think that’s possible.
The mariner’s cuffs are pieced onto the end of the sleeves, reducing bulk (no double layer). The buttons at the cuffs are round, domed, self-covered buttons.
The double breasted closure is made with multi-colored silk braid frogs and silk dome-shaped buttons.
The collar is quilted, too.
The center back seam does not bother to match the pattern; it’s just sewn up the center.
Triangular piecing at the side seams helps give this flair in the skirts. You can see this in the photo at left.
The sleeves are set in, two-piece sleeves typical of menswear.
That’s everything I can remember from my visit on Saturday with Sew 18th Century. I really do have to go back with a notebook and a stool!
Prince of Wales’ banyan, ca. 1780. Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton. ID CT002728
Alert! This item is currently on display at the RISD Museum of Art in Providence, through August 18, 2013. I have been to see it twice now.
As much as I am itching to get this on a table and investigate it, I am limited to craning my neck and squatting in front of the case. Awesomeness in cotton, this banyan has a five-button mariner’s cuff with a double arc like a broken pediment on a chest-on-chest. It would be a crazy thing for a Continental private to come strolling out of a tent in, not to mention impossible to make before the next camping excursion, but holy cats! that’s one fine banyan.
The RISD Museum is free on Sundays. You, too, can entertain the guards by craning your neck–photography is not allowed. Next visit: sketchbook.
There are a lot of other wonderful things to see, too–silk jersey breeches I expect to see on a colleague at some point, an indigo silk frock coat, the greatest great coat ever, and Fred Astaire’s tails, as well as a small section that I think does everything PUNK wanted but failed to do.
Yes, we have those at work. I tend to set enough goals for 3 single-spaced pages, and actually accomplish many of them. My boss, though a Known Over Achiever, thought I should work on this…tendency. So I came up with six goals for the first six months, and mostly got them done, along with a lot of other things.
When I updated the Projects 2013 page here, I thought perhaps I should heed my boss’s advice (don’t tell her that, I have a reputation to maintain) and, you know, assess my goals versus reality ratio.
It’s a long list of stuff, when you get down to it. How did I do, and what else needs to be done? Here’s a chart for the first six months of this sewing year; not all items were planned…some just happened, like kittens.
Item
For whom
When finished
Did it get made?
Tan wool waistcoat
Mr S
1/1/2013
Yes!
Red wool waistcoat
Young Mr
1/15/2013
Yes!
Off-white cotton trousers
Young Mr
1/18/2013
Yes!
Ikea curtain petticoat
Kitty
2/11/2013
Yes!
Black Taffeta Bonnet
Kitty
2/11/2013
Yes!
Shift
Kitty
2/11/2013
Yes!
Monmouth Cap
Young Mr
3/29/2013
Yes!
Blue wool jacket, 1770-1800
Young Mr
3/31/2013
Yes!
How Now Brown Gown
Kitty
4/7/2013
Yes!
Linen Hunting Frock
Young Mr
5/26/2013
Yes!
Linen Hunting Frock
Mr S
6/14/2013
Yes!
Striped pocket
Kitty
6/15/2013
Yes!
Blue checked linen bags (2)
Kitty & Mr S
6/15/2013
Yes!
Chintz jacket
Kitty
6/15/2013
Yes!
Linen Overalls
Young Mr
6/15/2013
Yes!
Black straw hat
Kitty
6/22/2013
Yes!
Alterations to Green Frock Coat
Mr S
Not yet
Nearly!
Linen Overalls
Mr S
Wearable
Nearly!
The Cherry Seller Gown is not on this list because it was started 7/4/2013, and is thus in the second half of the sewing year. A blue linen unlined frock coat for the Young Mr was started 7/7/2013, so counts towards the second half as well. For the coming months, here’s what I know I would like to get done:
Item
For whom
Due Date
Notes
Blue linen frock coat
Young Mr
7/14/2013
Ack!
Alterations to Green Frock Coat
Mr S
7/14/2013
More Ack!
White linen shirt
Mr S
11/2/2013
Just needs one…
Tan Virginia Cloth petticoat
Kitty
8/9/2013
1763
White linen petticoat
Kitty
8/9/2013
1763
Bed gown
Kitty
8/2/2013
For OSV!
Bed sack
Kitty & Mr S
7/19/2013
For Salem or OSV
Proper 1770s frock coat
Mr S
10/5/2013
For Quincy
Striped 1790s petticoat
Kitty
10/5/2013
For JBH
Printed 1790s shortgown
Kitty
10/5/2013
For JBH
Dress for a Lady, TBD
Kitty
10/5/2013
For JBH
10th Mass 1781 Regimental
Mr S
11/2/2013
Putnam Park
Neckstocks
Young Mr & Mr S
TBD
10th Mass
The list seems alternately doable and crazy. So what am I sitting here writing for? I’ve got to get backstitching!
Most of what I’ve made I’ve hated. It hasn’t been perfect enough. This is pretty much how it works when you are learning something new: your eyes outrun your abilities, and you have to keep working away to build the skills to match your dreams. I’m still building skills, but I have at least managed to get to a place where I can just about trust my ability to make something I can stand to wear.
I’ve also learned that you are likely, in the process of making a gown or what-have-you, to hate the garment in question. My friend hated her Green Gown of Doom, but when it was done and on she liked it. Midway through the Cherry Seller Robe, I hated it, thought it a failure, and wanted to quit.
Persevere: the moment when you are most frustrated is often the moment right before you figure out the thing you have been trying to learn.
Paul Sandby, London Cries: Black Heart cherries… ca. 1759. YCBA, B1975.3.206
The story behind the Cherry Seller Robe is that I plan to wear it in Boston on August 10, so it is very old fashioned. Based on Paul Sandby’s Black Heart Cherries watercolor, it is open with robings, and made of Burnley & Trowbridge’s wool-cotton “Virginia cloth.” The gown fits in a “v” on the front, and to my eye, has a 1750s look. (I have not finished the cuffs, attached lacing strips, or finished the stomacher; once lacing and stomacher are done, it will fit more like How Now Brown Gown.)
It was windy. Catastrophic hat failure resulted.
For August, I’ll make a white linen petticoat and a tan “Virginia cloth” petticoat, a blue linen apron and, I hope, a new lappet cap. (I had one cut out around here somewhere…) The yellow and blue or yellow-blue-white striped petticoat may have to wait; I have a lead on some in a stash, but no sightings yet. Making new, lighter-weight petticoats is in anticipation of August weather in downtown Boston. I’m still debating about the kerchief, which seems to be a solid color with a striped border; I may just wear the one I have.
Yesterday was hot and windy, with a chance of hat failure. All in all, a fine day to sew and wear wool.
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