More Banyan Business

Prince of Wales' banyan, ca. 1780. Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton. ID CT002728
Prince of Wales’ banyan, ca. 1780. Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton. ID CT002728

Soooo, what about that banyan?

Cotton chintz printed in red, brown and purple with blue pencil. Batting seems to be cotton by the way it has bunched in the diamonds, but I expected wool. If it is wool, it is super fine lambs’ wool. Since it was for the Prince of Wales, I think that’s possible.

The mariner’s cuffs are pieced onto the end of the sleeves, reducing bulk (no double layer). The buttons at the cuffs are round, domed, self-covered buttons.

The double breasted closure is made with multi-colored silk braid frogs and silk dome-shaped buttons.

The collar is quilted, too.

The center back seam does not bother to match the pattern; it’s just sewn up the center.

Triangular piecing at the side seams helps give this flair in the skirts. You can see this in the photo at left.

The sleeves are set in, two-piece sleeves typical of menswear.

That’s everything I can remember from my visit on Saturday with Sew 18th Century. I really do have to go back with a notebook and a stool!

One Hot Banyan

Prince of Wales' banyan, ca. 1780. Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton. ID CT002728
Prince of Wales’ banyan, ca. 1780. Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton. ID CT002728

Alert! This item is currently on display at the RISD Museum of Art in Providence, through August 18, 2013. I have been to see it twice now.

As much as I am itching to get this on a table and investigate it, I am limited to craning my neck and squatting in front of the case. Awesomeness in cotton, this banyan has a five-button mariner’s cuff with a double arc like a broken pediment on a chest-on-chest. It would be a crazy thing for a Continental private to come strolling out of a tent in, not to mention impossible to make before the next camping excursion, but holy cats! that’s one fine banyan.

The RISD Museum is free on Sundays. You, too, can entertain the guards by craning your neck–photography is not allowed. Next visit: sketchbook.

There are a lot of other wonderful things to see, too–silk jersey breeches I expect to see on a colleague at some point, an indigo silk frock coat, the greatest great coat ever, and Fred Astaire’s tails, as well as a small section that I think does everything PUNK wanted but failed to do.

Mid-Year Review

Yes, we have those at work. I tend to set enough goals for 3 single-spaced pages, and actually accomplish many of them. My boss, though a Known Over Achiever, thought I should work on this…tendency. So I came up with six goals for the first six months, and mostly got them done, along with a lot of other things.

When I updated the Projects 2013 page here, I thought perhaps I should heed my boss’s advice (don’t tell her that, I have a reputation to maintain) and, you know, assess my goals versus reality ratio.

It’s a long list of stuff, when you get down to it. How did I do, and what else needs to be done? Here’s a chart for the first six months of this sewing year; not all items were planned…some just happened, like kittens.

Item For whom When finished Did it get made?
Tan wool waistcoat Mr S 1/1/2013 Yes!
Red wool waistcoat Young Mr 1/15/2013 Yes!
Off-white cotton trousers Young Mr 1/18/2013 Yes!
Ikea curtain petticoat Kitty 2/11/2013 Yes!
Black Taffeta Bonnet Kitty 2/11/2013 Yes!
Shift Kitty 2/11/2013 Yes!
Monmouth Cap Young Mr 3/29/2013 Yes!
Blue wool jacket, 1770-1800 Young Mr 3/31/2013 Yes!
How Now Brown Gown Kitty 4/7/2013 Yes!
Linen Hunting Frock Young Mr 5/26/2013 Yes!
Linen Hunting Frock Mr S 6/14/2013 Yes!
Striped pocket Kitty 6/15/2013 Yes!
Blue checked linen bags (2) Kitty & Mr S 6/15/2013 Yes!
Chintz jacket Kitty 6/15/2013 Yes!
Linen Overalls Young Mr 6/15/2013 Yes!
Black straw hat Kitty 6/22/2013 Yes!
Alterations to Green Frock Coat Mr S Not yet Nearly!
Linen Overalls Mr S Wearable Nearly!

The Cherry Seller Gown is not on this list because it was started 7/4/2013, and is thus in the second half of the sewing year.  A blue linen unlined frock coat for the Young Mr was started 7/7/2013, so counts towards the second half as well.  For the coming months, here’s what I know I would like to get done:

Item For whom Due Date Notes
Blue linen frock coat Young Mr 7/14/2013 Ack!
Alterations to Green Frock Coat Mr S 7/14/2013 More Ack!
White linen shirt Mr S 11/2/2013 Just needs one…
Tan Virginia Cloth petticoat Kitty 8/9/2013 1763
White linen petticoat Kitty 8/9/2013 1763
Bed gown Kitty 8/2/2013 For OSV!
Bed sack Kitty & Mr S 7/19/2013 For Salem or OSV
Proper 1770s frock coat Mr S 10/5/2013 For Quincy
Striped 1790s petticoat Kitty 10/5/2013 For JBH
Printed 1790s shortgown Kitty 10/5/2013 For JBH
Dress for a Lady, TBD Kitty 10/5/2013 For JBH
10th Mass 1781 Regimental Mr S 11/2/2013 Putnam Park
Neckstocks Young Mr & Mr S TBD 10th Mass

The list seems alternately doable and crazy. So what am I sitting here writing for? I’ve got to get backstitching!

A Favorite Gown, at Last


First wearing at the Martin House in Swansea, MA

Most of what I’ve made I’ve hated. It hasn’t been perfect enough. This is pretty much how it works when you are learning something new: your eyes outrun your abilities, and you have to keep working away to build the skills to match your dreams. I’m still building skills, but I have at least managed to get to a place where I can just about trust my ability to make something I can stand to wear.

I’ve also learned that you are likely, in the process of making a gown or what-have-you, to hate the garment in question. My friend hated her Green Gown of Doom, but when it was done and on she liked it. Midway through the Cherry Seller Robe, I hated it, thought it a failure, and wanted to quit.

Persevere: the moment when you are most frustrated is often the moment right before you figure out the thing you have been trying to learn.

Paul Sandby, London Cries: Black Heart cherries... ca. 1759. YCBA,  B1975.3.206
Paul Sandby, London Cries: Black Heart cherries… ca. 1759. YCBA, B1975.3.206

The story behind the Cherry Seller Robe is that I plan to wear it in Boston on August 10, so it is very old fashioned. Based on Paul Sandby’s Black Heart Cherries watercolor, it is open with robings, and made of Burnley & Trowbridge’s wool-cotton “Virginia cloth.” The gown fits in a “v” on the front, and to my eye, has a 1750s look. (I have not finished the cuffs, attached lacing strips, or finished the stomacher; once lacing and stomacher are done, it will fit more like How Now Brown Gown.)

It was windy. Catastrophic hat failure resulted.

For August, I’ll make a white linen petticoat and a tan “Virginia cloth” petticoat, a blue linen apron and, I hope, a new lappet cap. (I had one cut out around here somewhere…) The yellow and blue or yellow-blue-white striped petticoat may have to wait; I have a lead on some in a stash, but no sightings yet.  Making new, lighter-weight petticoats is in anticipation of August weather in downtown Boston. I’m still debating about the kerchief, which seems to be a solid color with a striped border; I may just wear the one I have.

Yesterday was hot and windy, with a chance of hat failure. All in all, a fine day to sew and wear wool.