New Model Army Stove

From the BAR FB page.
From the BAR FB page.

Cooking and eating will be different at Monmouth, because there will be camp kitchens.

This means two things that give me stomachaches: trying something new in public and sharing with strangers. How to alleviate this discomfort? Research, of course, because we don’t think our landlord wants to have an 18th century camp kitchen in our yard, even as an attraction or energy saving option. (Nor have we figured out how to ask him about the hanging-chicken-cooking experiment we want to try using the metal fire pit he lights for snuggling with his many girlfriends.) For more on camp kitchens, you can read John U. Rees’s article here, or check out the work done on the common British soldier in America by the 18th century Material Culture Center.

"D" are the kitchens.
The circles are the kitchens.

With a camp kitchen, we can leave our three sticks at home. Kitchens are also far more authentic for a large camp (see the plan from von Steuben at right). I’ve also read that it’s quicker than cooking over an open fire, which is a plus.

A large heap of earth cannot be good in a downpour.
A large heap of earth cannot be good in a downpour.

The main downside that I can see to a camp kitchen is rain: from the photo and this drawing, you can imagine for yourself the results of a downpour. At least it’s going to be drier there by the end of the week…

5 Days till Monmouth

This is not Cassandra's idea of a nice frock.
This is not Cassandra’s idea of a nice frock.

Cassandra doesn’t like wearing uniforms and bayonets. She wants to wear a dress. She will have to be patient. (Actually, she is wearing a chintz jacket in need of a hem, and if I revolt against buttonholes, I might finish that tonight. More fringe must be made this evening for the hunting frock.)

I switched to Mr S’s overalls for awhile, and we’ve done the first fitting, which gets us to buttonholes and then re-basting the inseam and outseam. In the process, I discovered that he does, in fact, have a twisty leg. I do not think it is statistically probable that the two pairs of overalls I have cut for him and the pair cut by Mr Cooke would all include the same slightly on the bias leg. So I reversed my plans to get those done, and will stick with getting them to fitting number two. They will need a master’s hand and eye for fitting.

Sunday: One last strip o' fringe required.
Sunday: One last strip o’ fringe required.

But I think I have a plan for food for Monmouth, have confessed to Mr S that, based on the Monmouth sutler list, we must leave room in the car for possible additions to the Strategic Fabric Reserve, and have convinced the child to try learning a new song on the drum. I also started a new pocket, but I’m not sure if my hands can take the backstitching. Slipstitching and whipstitching aren’t too painful, but backstitching proved quite painful last night. It’s totally annoying, because it’s pointless to post a photo until it’s done and right-side out!

You can see the binding, but not the stripes. Silly!
You can see the binding, but not the stripes. Silly!

But this will be a panicky, intense week of samplers, reference, grant applications, and event prep. I suppose that’s not too different from many other weeks…though the last time I had this combination, we were only going to Sturbridge. I took comfort in the idea of how close we were to home, the way the cat knows how long it takes to dash to the basement when the doorbell rings. From Monmouth, it’s a long way back to my own basement.

[Another] Wild & Crazy Idea

Fashions, 1841. Fashion Plate Collection, Ella Strong Denison Library, Claremont College
Fashions, 1841. Fashion Plate Collection, Ella Strong Denison Library, Claremont College

Perhaps the Young Mr is correct: I may be crazy.

I have agreed to, at the very least, explore a project and grant funding to recreate an April 17 1841 Suffrage Parade for my workplace. We still have to decide to what lengths we’ll go, but the idea is so appealing that I want to give it a shot. (Orator positions opening soon?)

Public promenade dress, 1842. Claremont College
Public promenade dress, 1842. Fashion Plate Collection, Ella Strong Denison Library, Claremont College

Why is this crazy? Another year-specific event, with the event part to organize, plus wardrobe for at least some people? Pure madness, utter delight. Blame it on the Godey’s Lady’s Magazine paper dolls I bought at the Chicago Historical Society all those years ago. It could even mean another corset, and we all know how much I love making corsets. But I was thinking about how at my age in 1841 I’d be accustomed to an earlier style…but the key, as always, is looking. And looking tells me I need more of a waist than I can perhaps achieve with the stays I have in hand.

To my Pinterest board (thanks for so many wonderful leads, Cassidy) mix of extant garments and accessories, I’ve been pinning from fashion plate collections, including the well-cataloged collection at Claremont College Library.

Fashion plates are one of the sources you have to be careful with. Like Vogue, in fact exactly like Vogue, these are high-style images that are as mannered in their rendering as fashion images are today. Waists will be slimmer and skirts rounder, but the silhouette and shapes will be recognizable in extant garments, painted portraits, and thankfully, photography.

Mrs. Thomas Easterly. Daguerreotype by Thomas M. Easterly. Missouri Historical Society, PHO:17434
Mrs. Thomas Easterly. Daguerreotype by Thomas M. Easterly. Missouri Historical Society, PHO:17434

The year of the Suffrage March, 1841, is early for photography but not impossible (thank you, M. Daguerre). It’s not the right state, but there is a fantastic collection of images in Missouri. These portraits give a good sense of what people were actually wearing, and what shape their bodies took inside their stays and corsets. (Hot tip: don’t clear daguerreotypes with Scotch-brite pads.)

This is, really, a mad scheme that goes far beyond dress. But a banner painted with an ox and the slogan “I die for Liberty” carried by butchers? A wagonload of disenfranchised Revolutionary War veterans? Enlisting students (not in costume) to follow along behind costumed interpreters marching the known route of the 1841 parade? It’s too tempting not to try.

Bonus: Patterns and plaid!

D-Day: Robert Capa

Robert Capa, American, b. Budapest 1913 - d. Indochina 1954
Robert Capa, American, b. Budapest 1913 – d. Indochina 1954 © International Center of Photography

Once upon a time in the Midwest, I worked in a Department of Photographs and Prints. (That’s where I met Mr S, when he was hired as the first museum Photographer, though he was initially known as the Badger in the Basement for the tenacity with which he defended his studio.)

I am fortunate to have a visual memory, and that’s part of how I got my job, and part of how I got to be an Assistant, and then a full, Photo Editor of the museum’s magazine. I love images, and I love photography, and I suppose I must love photographers, too, since there’s one around here somewhere in this place that I call home.

FRANCE. Normandy. June 6th, 1944. Landing of the American troops on Omaha Beach. Robert Capa, International Center of Photography
FRANCE. Normandy. June 6th, 1944. Landing of the American troops on Omaha Beach. © Robert Capa © International Center of Photography

One of the best assignments was photo editing an article based on the World War II diary and service of a local doctor who served in the Army infantry. He wasn’t the most enlightened or unbiased man, but in the 1940s, I suppose that was sadly normal. I read the piece for placement and image ideas, not for tone or subtlety. North Africa, Monty, Casserine, Messina, Easy Red and Omaha: that’s what I underlined.

My go-to for WWII photography was Robert Capa first and last. There’s Blood and Champagne, but the book I read first was Slightly Out of Focus. It was written by Capa, just as he wrote Images of War. (I discovered these killing time on summer weekends in the air-conditioned fine art reading room of the downtown public library.) Capa did not love war, even as he thrived in the combat photography environment, and said, “If your photographs aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” But he also noted, like Cartier-Bresson, that you had to like people to take good photographs of them.

His images are dark: not just the imagery, but the prints themselves. A well-printed Capa has deep, rich, dark tones (D-Day images excepted, thanks to a horrendous processing error), and even decades later, a vintage Capa print has magic.

I called Magnum, back in the days when one called, described what I had seen, cited the books I’d read, listed what I wanted prints of to use in the magazine. I think I knew enough to get a little more: vintage prints of images I hadn’t seen. They arrived, sandwiched in cardboard, in a FedEx envelope.

TALY. Near Troina. August 4-5, 1943. Sicilian peasant telling an American officer which way the Germans had gone. Robert Capa, International Center of Photography
TALY. Near Troina. August 4-5, 1943. Sicilian peasant telling an American officer which way the Germans had gone. R © Robert Capa © International Center of Photography

There were photos like this one, and one of a soldier shaving, using his helmet as a basin. There were images I’d seen, and some I had not. They were dark, and sympathetic, and captured the war and humanity as no other images I’ve seen have ever done.

His portfolio was huge, and includes not just war photography, but fashion and film and humorous photos, too. Holding one of his prints–or at least a print made close to the time when he had shot the negative, and might have been alive–was as close as I was ever going to get to meeting Robert Capa. For all he lived through–escaping Fascism, documenting the Spanish Civil War, the Rape of Nanking, the Blitz, all of World War II– Robert Capa died after stepping on a land mine on the road to Thai Binh in what was then French Indochina.

INDOCHINA. May 25, 1954. Vietnamese troops advancing between Namdinh and Thaibinh. This is one of the last pictures taken by Robert Capa with his Nikon camera before he stepped on a landmine and died at 14.55. © Robert Capa © International Center of Photography
INDOCHINA. May 25, 1954. Vietnamese troops advancing between Namdinh and Thaibinh. This is one of the last pictures taken by Robert Capa with his Nikon camera before he stepped on a landmine and died at 14.55. © Robert Capa © International Center of Photography

It seems so sad, and yet one has to remember that he died working, doing not just what he loved–taking photographs–but what he had to do. He didn’t love war, but he loved people. The beauty of the images he made almost undoes their purpose, in recording war’s horrors, but the real affection for people that comes through in those contrasty prints redeems the violence, I think, giving us sympathy for the people uprooted, displaced, used and abused by war, whether soldier or civilian. Through that love,Capa found courage and we can find truth. Keep looking: there is more to see.