A Digression on Springsteen

I had to go to Woonsocket Wednesday to deliver some boxes to a museum so that they could be collected by yet another organization. On the way, I had company in form of our Assistant Registrar, and one of the things we talk about is music. I told him I’d been appalled by myself on Monday, by the stereotypical spectacle I’d made driving a Subaru Outback whilst listening to Bruce Springsteen turned way up with the windows rolled down: Soccer Mom Rocks out on Sunny Day. The only thing that saves me is that I am not, in fact, a soccer mom. I am Re-enactor Mom and Dungeons and Dragons Mom, but let’s not go there right now.

On Monday, I’d been at the Department of Motor Vehicles, where I passed the time reading the profile of Springsteen in the July 30 New Yorker. (Cars and roads! Songs about cars! and roads!). I was struck by Springsteen’s incredible focus–his bloody-minded obsession, you could call it, with music and with success. His life wasn’t easy or lovely, even if he never “worked” in the sense of having a laboring job, he worked hard at being a musician and a human being. And I found that enlightening, and I also found his wide-ranging musical interests enlightening.

This goes someplace relevant, I promise you.

When I was a teenager, the first music I listened to was my parents’. My father had a thing for stereo equipment, and I was lucky enough to get his HeathKit cast-offs. He and my mother had a collection of records, first issues of Bob Dylan and Flatt & Scruggs and Cream and classical, too. So the first album I remember really knowing was Blood on the Tracks, because I liked the stories. The politics of Dylan appealed to me, too, in the post-Nixon years with the Bomb still looming. After Dylan came Elvis, and then the other Elvis (Costello), who sounded strange and jarring and metallic and completely intriguing. From there, I went to punk.

Punk, and country. I saw the Replacements when I took a bus to the show, and they were hardly old enough to drive, and I remember vividly their cover of Hank Williams’ “Hey Good Lookin’.” We listened to country at home (in this era, it was disco or country or classical on the radio), Tanya Tucker and Loretta Lynn. And then there was the album a girl with an older brother in boarding school played for me, Born to Run.

I saw Springsteen, too, before I saw the Replacements. I remember buying Darkness on the Edge of Town, I remember buying The River, and I remember the concert. After that, it was all punk shows, 5 bands for 5 bucks at the Centro America Social Club on the North Side of Chicago. And all the while I still listened to Springsteen, Holiday in Cambodia followed by Nebraska.

By the time I got to college and had my own radio show, I knew enough not to tell people I liked Springsteen. It was the Reagan era, and Born in the USA had been co-opted. But in the art school studios, there was Kitty Wells and Patsy Cline and R.E.M. and I made work based on Faulkner’s Yoknapatawpha novels, shacks and houses and rooms on stilts because I was in a river city, with floods and flood plains and shot gun shacks.

What the heck does this have to do with reenacting or costumes? you ask. Bring on the bonnets! I know, I love bonnets too.

Here’s what it has to do with now: now I work in a history museum. I’m the keeper of the evidence room of the past, the very stuff of American history and identity. And I don’t listen to the Dead Kennedys anymore, though I do still listen to the Chicago punk bands. More than that, I listen to Wilco and R.E.M. and, yes, Bruce. I hear an American sound, a kind of universalism–and I know he doesn’t appeal to everyone, or speak for, or to, everyone.

But one of the things I think Springsteen gets at with his music is American identity, and American history. He’s listened to the blues, and listened to Guthrie, and you can hear that. He’s listened to people’s stories, and his best music tells other people’s stories. So do the best museums: they tell people’s stories, and make you listen, and make you care.

And that’s what the what the best re-enacting and best costuming does, too: it tells people stories, and makes them care, about the past we share.

A Box in a (not quite) Day

Since I made a new knapsack based on the example in the Fort Ticonderoga collection (see also Henry Cooke’s work, or The Packet III, page 28), I had paint. When you have paint, you want to put it on something. I put mine on a box.

Ikea had ‘Kartotek’ birch ply boxes one year, and the Young Mr was using some as treasure chests in his room, but now that he’s growing up a bit, he was willing to have one remodeled. The lines were pretty basic and the construction simple enough that I thought we could do a kind of recon on this box. (Recon is Library Lingo for “retrospective conversion.”)

First, I took it apart and sanded it. Don’t forget to cover work surfaces and expect to sweep/tack cloth up dust from both the box and everything around the box. Mr. S helped me out by drilling out the riveted handles, and re-drilling holes large enough to take the rope we had. It smells like hemp, but I have no idea where it came from–perhaps a Christmas tree excursion.

All good so far, sanded, drilled, and ready to take the paint. I thought one coat would be enough, since I had the red stain underneath, and wear and tear make things look better, so, fantastic! Time to put it together.

Hold on there, pilgrim. I looked at the screws. They were Phillips head, and not really brass. That’s not right! I’ve crawled under enough old tables to know that screws are flat, slot-head, and made of brass in this time period. With the rise of the screw gun/cordless drill, this kind of screw is no longer easy to find. They’re all Phillips at the big box hardware stores, and our little speciality store recently downsized and rearranged.

Was I really screwed? No, thanks to the interwebs. Slot-head brass screws are still used in marine applications, so I was able to order a bag from Amazon–the local chandlers seem to have given way to WestMarine, and they seemed only to have stainless steel screws.

The package came on Wednesday, I got out the screw driver, and after what totals up to a day’s work, we have a box for the Young Mr S to stash his stuff in when in camp. I expect the box to soon contain one book about dragons, several sticks and rocks, a tangle of fishing line, an empty candy wrapper, and an apple core. Also, homework that counts towards his grade.

Put a Lid on It!

Yes, I have a bonnet problem.

I don’t know how I find all the sites and blogs I find, but I came across another interesting one today while waiting for data to load: An American Seamstress, finishing a waistcoat and struggling with a bonnet.

Have I fought with bonnets! I love bonnets, and I come by this honestly: my grandmother had a shoes thing and a hat thing, and the hat thing came with “hat face,” a particularly foxy-grandma face she make when trying on hats. So while I thought I ought to write about tent research, or the cool ad I found for a shop in Newport selling dry goods and haberdashery, now I think the heck with all that. Bonnets!

Here’s what I’ve learned, and what I’ve used. (for all images, click for a larger version)

Buckram. What they sell at Jo-Ann’s is not what you want. It is too thin to be much use unless you glue it to chip board (today’s equivalent of paste board). For more on chip board, see Kannik’s Korner on bonnets. I buy mine at Utrecht because  they’re in town. Dick Blick has it, buy the single ply.

Better buckram. I ordered a kit from Timely Tresses just to get my hands on a proven pattern and real millinery supplies. They’re hard to find in real life, and ordering online when you can’t touch stuff is hard. I did find some very sturdy buckram locally at Ryco, a mill store selling quilting fabrics, and lots of other stuff.

Millinery wire. Accept no substitutes in wire. Just trust me. I have successfully used cane originally purchased for stays. I had left overs, it curves, it worked when stitched to buckram.

Silk. The difference between taffeta and dupioni is visible and tangible (dupioni left, taffeta right). Use taffeta. I don’t always, and I still like my dupioni bonnet but most of why it works is its size and the fact that my impression is middling-trending-lower. (And saucy. I sometimes think a raised eyebrow and a loud handkerchief can make up for a lot, especially crooked petticoat hems.) But the runaway ads include stuff (wool) and linen bonnets, so read them closely for ideas.

Make a muslin first: we all know, it applies here, too. For cauls, bigger is usually better for the 18th century. For some of the bonnets, I use the lighter weight buckram to sew an insert between the caul and the lining to keep the crown more erect and poufy. At the end of the day, you might deflate, but why should your fabulous bonnet?

Trim it up. I often use strips of self fabric folded over and looped to make “bows,” because that’s how the Williamsburg bonnet looks to me. I’ve also used ribbon, so this: use silk. Less silk is better than more poly, really really, it will handle and feel and look better, and so will you. I use Burnley & Trowbridge  and Wm Booth Draper silk ribbons, and bought some from a sutler who sold herbs and hand-dyed silk ribbon.

My next bonnet will be a black silk lined with red with the red-hand dyed silk ribbon trim, based on a runaway ad. Will it be done by OSV? Probably not, but once you have it down, a nice hand-sewn bonnet is about a day’s work.

Fine Sewing

20120720-211927.jpgI made the time today to finish something I’d started back in June at Dress U. I was fortunate enough to be in Sharon Burnston’s Fine Sewing class, and got started on an apron. Even before I started reenacting and sewing 18th century clothes for myself, I admired Sharon Burnston’s work and the fantastic Fitting and Proper, which I ordered for the library at work several years ago. Ms. Burnston is the living definition of a stitch counter or thread counter in the very best way, and here’s why: she counts threads, and that counts.

20120720-212029.jpgOne of the key points I learned was the relationship between the threads and the stitches– essentially 2 x 2 for this project. Using a traditional New England fabric makes it easy–with a linen check, you can just about “cut on dotted line” and know you’re set.

We started by hemming each side of the apron for a couple of inches, just to get started. Stitch two over, in little crosses. Then, at the top of the rectangle, we gathered. The gathers were the illuminating part: Stroke gathers. Using the check as a guide, we ran even gathering stitches twice along the top.

20120720-212120.jpg I used the every-other check pattern, so the gathers were small. Ms. Burnston suggested that the best way to think of stroke gathering was as proto-smocking, and to make an evenly spaced running stitch with cotton quilting thread. The top row of gathers will be buried in the waistband, the bottom row gets pulled. Just make sure the replicate the top row exactly!

When you pull the threads, the fabric makes lovely even gathers. Pulling them down with a needle or pin–stroking them–makes them lie down even more evenly and nicely.

Then its on to the waistband and finishing with linen tape ties.

So, at last, finished object, green and white check. Along the Connecticut River valley, the predominate check was blue and white, but I look at this and think, maybe that’s what they mean by “bad color” in the runway ads– a kind of end-of-vat green.

ETA: Thread! I forgot the thread part. Fine stitches are achieved by using a fine needle and thread–obvious, right? Size 12 needles, if they suit your hands, and a fine linen thread. When I got home, I used 80/2 white linen thread. It worked really well, with infrequent breaks. Use plenty of beeswax, and the thread will break far less frequently–if at all–especially if you use shorter lengths. Since you need to run the gathering thread the entire width of the linen, cotton or even cotton/poly is best used for the gathers. My hands are really big, but even so I use fine quilting needles from England and manage pretty small stitches. I’ve used John James and Richard Hemming & Sons, but both had to be ordered online. Dritz applique needles can be found at Jo-Ann, if you’re in a hurry, or, like me, discover all your favorite needles are bent, blunt, or stuck in a crack in the floorboards…