Spring Spencers

Spencers are not unlike bonnets, in my mind. They’re more work than a bonnet, sure, but compared to the layer cake that is an English gown, a Spencer is a batch of cupcakes.

I’ve fondled more silks than I may care to admit (oh, remnant table, how I love thee), and often picked up and put down a small length because it was patterned. Not enough for a gown, just enough for a Spencer. But Spencers are always solid.

No, they’re not.

Allegorical Wood-Cut, with Patterns of British Manufactures. May, 1815. Ackermans's Repository of Arts, etc. Volume 13.
Allegorical Wood-Cut, with Patterns of British Manufactures. May, 1815. Ackermans’s Repository of Arts, etc. Volume 13.

It’s a Homer-quality forehead-slapping moment.

Caption, Allegorical Wood-Cut of British Manufactures. Ackermans's Repository of Arts, etc. Volume 13, May, 1815. page 298
Caption, Allegorical Wood-Cut of British Manufactures. Ackermans’s Repository of Arts, etc. Volume 13, May, 1815. page 298

Not only are there extant cotton roller-print Spencers, and wild printed cotton Spencer ensembles in North American collections, there’s print evidence of patterned silks for Spencers. Somehow, until I came across this plate and the description in Ackermann’s, I could not make the leap from cotton to silk.

Despite the existence of this.

My sole defense is that one patterned Spencer is still a zebra among horses.

But additional evidence, in the form of recommendations for spring in Ackermann’s? The zebra’s looking a little more like a horse.

Want more Ackermann’s? You know you do. The links are better sorted here.

Many, many thanks to Mr B for the tip!

5 thoughts on “Spring Spencers

  1. Alden O'Brien's avatar Alden O'Brien

    Well…I’m not nitpicking or anything, just sharing: I know of two spencers in a private collection that are patterned. one is a blue (almost purple) and white checked China-weight silk (the checks are maybe, oh, 3/4 inch as memory serves). The other is a yellow and pale spring green figured sarsnet, from the mid-teens I’d guess based on the trim and little sleeve puffs and so on. If that helps. Not saying it turns the zebra into a horse; it just suggests maybe there is a herd of zebras out there…FWIW.

      1. Alden O'Brien's avatar Alden O'Brien

        yes, a collection that often lends to various museum exhibits, email me at aobrien@dar.org and I’ll share, don’t want to put it out in the wild universe of the Net, but this independent scholar is generous about sharing with colleagues.

  2. Adding to the zebra herd …
    How about this stripeish spencer in Germany
    http://www.dhm.de/datenbank/dhm.php?seite=5&fld_0=AK204370

    and this gorgeous one in Museu Textil in Spain

    This stripe one sold by Augusta Auctions
    https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=9044&auction_file_id=10

    This sold in teh UK
    http://morgaine-le-fay.co.uk/?p=4240

    A silk stripe in Italy
    http://www.abitiantichi.it/collezione/soprabiti/soprab21.html

    I may be a little obsessed

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