Month: July 2013

A Favorite Gown, at Last

On By kittycalashIn 1763 Project, Clothing, Living History6 Comments

First wearing at the Martin House in Swansea, MA

Most of what I’ve made I’ve hated. It hasn’t been perfect enough. This is pretty much how it works when you are learning something new: your eyes outrun your abilities, and you have to keep working away to build the skills to match your dreams. I’m still building skills, but I have at least managed to get to a place where I can just about trust my ability to make something I can stand to wear.

I’ve also learned that you are likely, in the process of making a gown or what-have-you, to hate the garment in question. My friend hated her Green Gown of Doom, but when it was done and on she liked it. Midway through the Cherry Seller Robe, I hated it, thought it a failure, and wanted to quit.

Persevere: the moment when you are most frustrated is often the moment right before you figure out the thing you have been trying to learn.

Paul Sandby, London Cries: Black Heart cherries... ca. 1759. YCBA, B1975.3.206
Paul Sandby, London Cries: Black Heart cherries… ca. 1759. YCBA, B1975.3.206

The story behind the Cherry Seller Robe is that I plan to wear it in Boston on August 10, so it is very old fashioned. Based on Paul Sandby’s Black Heart Cherries watercolor, it is open with robings, and made of Burnley & Trowbridge’s wool-cotton “Virginia cloth.” The gown fits in a “v” on the front, and to my eye, has a 1750s look. (I have not finished the cuffs, attached lacing strips, or finished the stomacher; once lacing and stomacher are done, it will fit more like How Now Brown Gown.)

It was windy. Catastrophic hat failure resulted.

For August, I’ll make a white linen petticoat and a tan “Virginia cloth” petticoat, a blue linen apron and, I hope, a new lappet cap. (I had one cut out around here somewhere…) The yellow and blue or yellow-blue-white striped petticoat may have to wait; I have a lead on some in a stash, but no sightings yet.  Making new, lighter-weight petticoats is in anticipation of August weather in downtown Boston. I’m still debating about the kerchief, which seems to be a solid color with a striped border; I may just wear the one I have.

Yesterday was hot and windy, with a chance of hat failure. All in all, a fine day to sew and wear wool.

Independence Day Projects

On By kittycalashIn Clothing, Events1 Comment

20130705-055833.jpg

The guys love a parade, but I do not. So they went off at 7AM for Manchester-by-the-Sea and I stayed home after they were safely and mostly kitted up and in the car. Here they are with the Adjutant, the Young Mr literally a giant among men. The overalls for Mr S were finished at lunch on Wednesday, and lack only in- and out- seam finishing plus a strap for the instep…as well as a waistband alteration, but he doesn’t bust them squatting, so for now, these are completely wearable. And they fit like tights.

Of course, the lads want regimentals. And you can’t blame them: the more they look like soldiers, the more they act and feel and behave like soldiers. This bit of psychology is particularly useful in dealing with the Young Mr who was lured to the car at that early hour by the promise of a) doughnuts, b) an officer’s coat and sword, and c) not having to drum. He’s so close, and yet light years away, from carrying a musket. And when he is old enough to join a regiment on his own, I predict defection to the bridge-jumping 40th with their short red jackets and ostrich plumes.

(Historically, Mr S’s ancestors were on both sides during the Revolutionary period. One decamped to Nova Scotia after Stamp Act riots, another marched from Connecticut to be part of the Army of Observation, and still yet another ratted out American actions on Long Island to the British. Once we’d researched this, my threats to sell the Young Mr to the British carried no weight whatsoever, though technically, he should settle for a green Loyalist’s coat. My people were in Sweden, wearing wool and eating fish, tending their cows and carpentry.)

I spent the holiday nearly banging out an entire gown: entirely cut out, the bodice, back, and one front skirt are assembled. It’s the same pattern as the Richard III/How Now Brown Gown, but without the center back seam wiggle. Burley & Trowbridge’s cotton-wool “Virginia Cloth” is much easier to sew than the heavier wool from Wm Booth. I hope to have it done by Sunday’s event in Swansea, but cannot swear it will be.

Also to be sewn this week: alterations to the Horrid Green Frock Coat, and one complete, from-the-table-up blue linen unlined jacket based on an extant RI example. (Thanks to a pattern from the Adjutant, about which I am very excited.) We (along with many others) have a date with George Washington in Cambridge on Sunday. If you’re in the area, join us.

ETA: That’s next Sunday, July 14. It feels closer than it is….

1763: It’ll be here before you know it.

On By kittycalashIn 1763 Project3 Comments
PORTRAIT D'UNE FEMME EN BUSTE, by FRANCOIS-HUBERT DROUAIS ca. 1757
PORTRAIT D’UNE FEMME EN BUSTE, by FRANCOIS-HUBERT DROUAIS ca. 1757

Boston keeps me busy, along with a few other things, but as a means of wrangling the project information, I made a free website. You can visit it here to see how it progresses. Yes, I could have used wordpress, but this navigation seemed better for the intended audience. Of course, all this just makes the list of things I want to make longer, for example, this lovely gown.

Do I care that she’s French? No, all I care about is that she’s plaid, like the oyster seller. Somewhere I have brown and white cotton plaid…and a long list of other things to make!