Into the Breech(es)

Not me, but Mr. S. I finished the last of 20 or so button holes on waistcoat and breeches, and got him to agree to get dressed and be photographed. He chose the rake, as he likes 18th century work. He hopes to  join in as a volunteer laborer at Coggeshall Farm this coming weekend, and these are his clothes.

The shirt, which he has had for a year, is from the Kannik’s Korner pattern, made in a blue and white check linen purchased from Wm Booth Draper. There was a check shirt in the clothing inventory of a 2nd RI soldier who died at the Battle of Monmouth, and this small blue and white check is found throughout New England at this time in shirts and aprons. The neck handkerchief is from Time Travel Textiles. He has another one in blue that he likes to wear with his uniform on hot days.

The waistcoat is adapted from a BAR pattern I got from the captain. The wool is a Wm Booth Draper remnant that was not enough to make a jacket for me. It just made the waistcoat for him, and is lined in a striped linen from Jo Ann fabrics that was lurking in the stash. The breeches are made from the Mill Farm pattern, which doesn’t have diagrams but has well-written instructions. I finally got pockets to work using that pattern the first time out! The fabric is a linen-cotton blend from a remnant table at the local mill store. The waistband is lined with a utility linen from Wm Booth Draper, as there was not enough for the waistband…because these started out as overalls. They became a hot mess because Mr. S has large, single-speed-bike up Providence Hills calves. Henry Cooke got a look at the man in shorts a few weeks ago, but still thinks he can fit them. I say, it will take Mr. Cooke’s skill. At least Burnley & Trowbridge stockings fit over them.

The last photo shows him at Redcoats & Rebels this year, striding across the common to join the 10th Massachusetts. Here as above, the shoes are Robert Land’s Williamsburg shoes, and the buckles are from G Gedney Godwin. I went with plainer buckles with rounded corners because that was called for by the uniform specifications in the Continental Army, so that the buckles would not wear through the tongues of the uniform overalls. Shoes & buckles were Mr S’s Christmas gifts. The tan waistcoat was supposed to be as well, but the buttonholes got the better of me. Once I get past the first two, they’re OK, but at the start of the buttonholes for a man’s waistcoat or breeches, I have a kind of Kubler-Ross reaction: denial, anger, bargaining, depression, and acceptance.

I’m so glad he likes reenacting. Buttonholes aside, it’s been a great learning experience sewing for him. Onward to a regimental, and to this: No farmer’s smock for him, thank you. Next year, his laborer intends to be well-dressed. At least with those big buttons, there won’t be that many button holes…though I bet the total area of button hole sewing is the same!

“warmest greatitude”

J. G. Burdette  at  Map of Time nominated me for a Versatile Blogger Award, for which I am grateful. It’s also quite suitable, since I may veer from 18th century bonnets to heating coils to cooking in a tin kettle in a short span of time. My friends tell me you get used it, so buckle in and enjoy the ride.

Accepting this honor means I need to follow the rules:

  1. Thank and link back to the person who nominated you (see paragraph 1)
  2. Paste the award to your blog (check)
  3. Tell 7 thing about yourself (OK, see below)
  4. Nominate 15 other blogs (I can manage 12, I don’t have time to really read more than that on a regular basis.)

So, 7 things about me:

  1. When I was a child, I had a fold-out paper Georgian house to color in, with paper furniture to assemble, and for which I made paper dolls. This is no way resembles my current work with furniture and mannequins in an 18th-century house.
  2. I had a hard hat when I was 8, and somewhere there’s a photo to prove it. It’s not lost, I just can’t find it right now.
  3. I played Samuel Adams in our 5th grade play, and insisted that my mother make me a frock coat with coordinating cuffs and waistcoat. Yes, I have always been this way.
  4. If I can’t read The New York Times daily, I start to experience withdrawal symptoms.
  5. William Faulkner is one of my favorite authors, followed by David Mitchell. I like words.
  6. For one brief shining moment three years ago, I truly understood dew point and relative humidity and felt really smart.
  7. Life’s short: buy a good hammer is a decent philosophy for living.

My favorite blogs:

  1. The Still Room Blog: a little of everything, every day, always well written.
  2. Kleidung um 1800 Beautiful handsewing
  3. Sew 18th Century, costume and local
  4. Mimic-of-Modes, on costume and other things
  5. Historic Cookery, yes, what it says
  6. Things I Vacuumed Today I feel you sister, and you had me at Vacuumed.
  7. Opus Anglicanum Historical textiles
  8. Hyaline Prosaic, historic sewing
  9. Serena Dyer, historic costume
  10. Researching Food History 
  11. Four Pounds Flour Historic Gastronomy
  12. FIDM Museum Blog more historic fashion & museum

Bonnets, buttonholes and boilers

When all else fails, sew! The Harvest Fair at Coggeshall Farm Museum approaches and quite aside from the real work that’s gone into a quilting frame, and buttons on breeches, it’s been an excuse for a new bonnet.

A few weeks ago, I found the modern, not-as-fine bonnet based on the KCI bonnet, and similar to one sold by Meg Andrews.

In a 1794 fashion plate, there is a similar bonnet with blue ribbons and an enormous feather. I don’t rate a feather as John Brown’s maid, or the Continental Army veteran’s wife, but blue ribbons seemed OK. Plus, I had them already.

The bows and the band and the strap don’t match, and my dress isn’t blue, but I think that’s all fine. The most I can say is that I’ve found two extant examples of this bonnet, and the fashion plate, which predates the farm’s interpretive year.

As a striving resident of Providence, Rhode Island’s busy port city, I’d have access to more goods than a Greenville woman. Bristol (where the farm is located) was also a thriving port, and again, boats from Rhode Island are sailing around the world bringing back china, silks, teas, spices, shawls and other goods, as early as 1787.

Now, pass me a boilermaker, please, because I’ll need a drink when the mechanical contractor tells me what the boilermaker will charge for a new Library boiler.

 

ETA: Aaand there’s this painting, Mme Seriziat, by David, 1795. Click for larger version, but she’s the reasoning behind the choice of blue ribbon.  The placement seemed to agree with the KCI and fashion plate ribbons, and joy! the color was in my ribbon box. I tried to get my ribbon to do what her ribbon is doing, but the bows and loops looked like sad blue silk dog ears– not so nice. So I switched them around to the back, based on the other images.